Wednesday, February 21, 2024

How to run a fashion magazine in China in 2023

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NEW YORK — Two years ago, when Condé Nast announced that Ms Margaret Zhang would be the next editor-in-chief of Vogue China, many in the fashion media were taken aback.

For one thing, at 27, Ms Zhang was the youngest editor-in-chief of a Vogue title. For another, there was her unorthodox resume as a photographer, consultant, filmmaker, model and social media influencer — with almost no magazine experience.

Then there was the fact that Ms Zhang, who was born to Chinese immigrant parents in Sydney, was an Australian who had never lived in mainland China.

Her appointment was a considerable gamble for Condé Nast, and specifically for its global chief content officer, Anna Wintour. China was, and is, a cornerstone of the luxury fashion market, responsible for billions of dollars of sales.

It is an economic superpower with a complicated relationship with the West and a place where censorship of the press is common.

It is also the most populous country in the world (about 1.4 billion people), whose nationalism is helping reshape consumer culture and the retail landscape.

Some Western fashion brands have faced strong reactions after angering the government over moves involving Xinjiang cotton or Taiwan.

Ms Angelica Cheung, the founding editor of Vogue China, held the position for 15 years. Its next editor would need to have an ambitious vision, formidable connections and commercial and diplomatic savvy — a challenge for someone twice Ms Zhang’s age and experience, let alone a foreigner.

How would it feel to step into a job like that, knowing how many people expect you to fail?

In Soho during London Fashion Week last month, Ms Zhang, now 29, paused for a moment when asked that question.

Petite, and currently with electric blue hair (she defines the periods of her life with its hues), she has been able to travel freely for shows since China lifted its strict lockdown earlier this year.

“I don’t mind people underestimating me,” Ms Zhang said. “And I actually say that to people who look to me for guidance on how they can be taken seriously.”

She added with a grin: “It’s actually better when people underestimate you. Then you can prove them wrong. It’s all the more satisfying.”

NEW BEGINNINGS

Ms Zhang’s first issue, in September 2021, was called “New Beginnings” and was produced during quarantine by a group of women, including a little-known photographer Hailun Ma.

It featured a 19-year-old dance student from Beijing Sport University on the cover. Since then, Ms Zhang, who now lives in Beijing, has continued plotting her vision for Vogue and what it can represent in 21st-century China.

Her handle on Instagram, where she has 1.8 million followers, does not say “Editor-in-Chief”; instead, it says “Film Director.” (She is working on a screenplay.)

Little surprise, then, that one of her most high-profile projects is Vogue Film, a platform to support Chinese women in film. To date, it has produced 11 short films.

Then there is Vogue Open Casting, an annual model scouting program that will go worldwide this year, and the Chinese Craftsmanship Initiative, which facilitates collaborations among international designers, local design talent and traditional Chinese craft communities.

Ms Zhang has also spearheaded a mentorship program pairing rising Chinese designers with international names, like Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino.

Ms Zhang’s magazine covers and the content inside are striking, rooted in bold saturated colour and the candid style that initially found her fame as an influencer.

A September 2022 digital cover series explored fashion’s collision with the metaverse; the splashy cover of the December 2022 issue, photographed by Ms Zhang, featured supermodel Liu Wen.

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